.....contd from Footsteps on the Sahara (Part 1)
The car drove on...100 more kilometers to go......to the Sahara desert.
The car drove on...100 more kilometers to go......to the Sahara desert.
The land scape started changing. The peaks of the mountains started flattening out more into high plateau shaped structures. The vegetation started hinting on the proximity to the real desert. The greenery almost vanished, more and more of the thorny cactus trees became visible, the colour of the land itself changed into more of a sandy brownish shade, and yes....we could see camels on the roadside. My never-seen-a-desert eyes eagerly looked our of the window as if expecting the Sahara to be visible all at once!!Achmed stopped at a very small roadside shop saying, "this is where you need to buy your stock of water for the desert".We were already tired from the journey hence when he offered to stop for photos we had declined twice. But the mention of the two words "water" and "desert" in the same sentence was actually quite effective, enough to make us get down from the car and rush to the shop to get some bottles. The shop also sold "turbans", definitely not a coincidence.We had experience putting them on for a photo, remember? Now was the "real" stuff!! The shopkeeper helped us tie these 3 m long pieces of cloth around our head and face...yahoo!! All geared up we drove to the nearby "camel-station".
Believe me, the sight was exciting!! As exciting as when I stepped into the plane (Calcutta airport --my first plane journey to Japan in 1996) or boarded the Shinkansen (first time on the Japanese high speed trains, 1998) or.... The "first time" for anything is super exciting, right?
The similarity ends at that, OFFCOURSE!.I mean when I come to the "speed" part!
So infront of us we had these fleet of camels ...totally expressionless...patiently waiting for us to get on them. One thing really caught my attention--have been told from childhood that the ship of the desert carries its water in its hump...finally got to see it!..Do you also see it in the picture?
A camel with water stored in its hump |
THAT itself was a journey!!! My body needed to bend and unbend atleast at 467 different angles with the camels jerky motion from sitting to the standing position.
Sunset in the Sahara--what colours! |
Sunrise in the Sahara--what colours!! |
After about 20 mins, the sun left and took with it all the light and all the colours leaving us in pitch darkness. It also became very cold within moments (Thank God we had our turbans on!!).Our camel man knew the way very well, I am sure. But still the fact that we were in the Sahara desert, on camels, riding at a mind numbing slow pace,into the darkness,in the cold, no TOMTOM to happily say "stay in the left lane",...can be quite something!
I asked our camel man how far we were from the tents.He answered in a mix of Arabic and French which sounded like "Greek and Latin" to me! I tried body language (which I realised is very difficult on a camel!). The body did not twist and turn as I wanted it to, so ended up asking nothing at all. Our camel man gave me a toothless smile (he was easily above 70!) and moved on..Ok, so surrendered to fate and our dear camel man , the little group silently continued the journey. I lied to Arno.
"No worries dear, we will be there in 10 mins"
Maybe it was 10 or 20 mins..(it seemed like 60)..we suddenly saw some black dots and some specks of light like fireflies in the far...Our camel man pointed to it and told us something...the language was not a barrier anymore.We understood we were near our camps!
What a relief..!!
A man came out of the tents to welcome us.
"Welcome to the 10,000 star hotel in Morocco"--Thats what he said. I smiled , too tired to even try intepreting his welcome message. He pointed up...I looked up...Never in my life have I seen so many stars !!It was like there was less of sky , more of stars..wonderfully bright and amazingly close. The "pain in the a**" did not matter any more, nor did the language barrier or the eerie darkness. I blinked several times to capture this wonderful picture with my own eyes..
The tents are called bivouacs..basically nomadic tents..with narrow camp beds inside but thats it. Some very small lamps lit the tent area. We needed our own torches to go to the common "toilet tent". There were other groups of people from other tourist agents as well. We said brief hi and hello and proceeded towards our tent to get ready for dinner.
They served us a "berber dinner" which consisted of slices of moroccan bread , a thick soup and a tagine with chicken. It was very very cold..the taste did not really matter..the warmth of the food was more important. We lapped it all up. The bonfire and the berbers singing their folk songs, the open sky with its innumerable stars, the warm food served with moroccan hospitality...the whole package was awesome. Sleep descended on us.......
Next morning we woke up with hot moroccan mint tea..we were already dressed (it was so cold at night that we slept with our sweaters on)..came out..watched a wonderful sunrise again with the surprising colour variations...and got on our camels to come back to locality.
Achmed was waiting with the car to take us back to Marrakech. Definitely a relief to be back in the car ( a much familiar transport !!)...
"Welcome to the 10,000 star hotel in Morocco"--Thats what he said. I smiled , too tired to even try intepreting his welcome message. He pointed up...I looked up...Never in my life have I seen so many stars !!It was like there was less of sky , more of stars..wonderfully bright and amazingly close. The "pain in the a**" did not matter any more, nor did the language barrier or the eerie darkness. I blinked several times to capture this wonderful picture with my own eyes..
The tents are called bivouacs..basically nomadic tents..with narrow camp beds inside but thats it. Some very small lamps lit the tent area. We needed our own torches to go to the common "toilet tent". There were other groups of people from other tourist agents as well. We said brief hi and hello and proceeded towards our tent to get ready for dinner.
They served us a "berber dinner" which consisted of slices of moroccan bread , a thick soup and a tagine with chicken. It was very very cold..the taste did not really matter..the warmth of the food was more important. We lapped it all up. The bonfire and the berbers singing their folk songs, the open sky with its innumerable stars, the warm food served with moroccan hospitality...the whole package was awesome. Sleep descended on us.......
Next morning we woke up with hot moroccan mint tea..we were already dressed (it was so cold at night that we slept with our sweaters on)..came out..watched a wonderful sunrise again with the surprising colour variations...and got on our camels to come back to locality.
Achmed was waiting with the car to take us back to Marrakech. Definitely a relief to be back in the car ( a much familiar transport !!)...
As I looked back at the desert gradually fading away in the distance, I realised what a wonderful trip it was...
I can still feel the thrill of the vast, unknown, limitless sands of the Sahara.........
Stay with me, tomorrow we shall visit the town center of Marrakech where we will share a delicious tagine recipe together.
;-)